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Education - Diamond Shape | Adiamor

Diamond Shape

At Adiamor, our strict standards of quality ensure that all of our diamond shapes are of the highest cut and craftsmanship. Our extensive collection of GIA and AGSL graded diamonds include every shape from the classic round brilliant to fancy shapes such as the Asscher cut, emerald cut and cushion cut diamonds. Adiamor's Affinity Collection diamonds feature the highest quality of diamond cut and craftsmanship available in the world. Our Affinity Collection diamonds include the "Hearts and Arrows" round brilliant diamond cut, and both emerald and Asscher cut diamonds.

Choose Your Diamond Shape

Various diamond shapes all have their own distinct and unique properties; the way a particular diamond appears to the wearer, reflects and refracts light and displays fire and brilliance all depend upon it's shape. Choose your preferred shape below to learn about your favorite diamond. If you have further questions, please contact our one of our on staff gemologists who will happily walk you through the process of selecting a diamond just right for you.

Round Cut Diamond

The modern round brilliant Cut Diamond has been a popular staple in engagement and wedding rings for nearly a century. Whether you are creating a ring, pendant or earrings- the round brilliant cut mounts easily into most settings flawlessly, and is the most versatile of all diamond shapes.

The round brilliant diamond features 58 precision-cut facets that maximize the amount of sparkle and brilliance the viewer sees within the heart of the stone. The round brilliant is highly prized as this cut offers the widest range of color and clarity flexibility of any shape available today.

Tip: The round brilliant has the widest range of choices in color and clarity.

Fact: This is a brilliant Cut Diamond with 58 facets to maximize brilliance and fire.

Suggested Cut: Affinity Ideal, Ideal and Very Good

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Princess Cut Diamond

The next most popular cut after the round brilliant, the princess looks beautiful in both classic and modern settings and is a very versatile choice. This shape is square to slightly rectangular with pointed corners and chevron-shaped facets that maximize scintillation and fire. GIA defines the princess cut as a square modified brilliant or a rectangular modified brilliant cut.

These diamonds will appear perfectly square in the length to width ratio range 1.0-1.05; it will appear very near perfect within the 1.06-1.09 range.

Tip: Princess cuts blends the brilliance of a round and the clean lines of a step cut.

Fact: Chevron shaped facets in the pavilion enhance scintillation in the diamond.

Suggested Cut: 1.0 to 1.05 for square, 1.1-1.25 for rectangle

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Emerald Cut Diamond

The emerald cut is an elegant and sophisticated choice; this distinctive cut features a large table which showcases the clarity and transparency of the diamond. The emerald cut is a step cut, the primary features of which are straight, tiered facets that appear like a mirrored staircase within the pavilion. Cut corners on the outer edges of the diamond are its signature characteristic.

In searching for the perfect emerald Cut Diamond, maintain a high clarity rating; Adiamor recommends clarity grades of VS2 and higher with a thorough visual inspection to ensure no inclusions or blemishes impact the appearance of the diamond.

Tip: Clarity is key; for SI1 or lower, make sure large inclusions are not easily seen.

Fact: The long, tiered facets of the step cut create a mirrored effect in the pavilion.

Suggested Cut: 1.3 to 1.55 for a classic emerald cut shape

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Marquise Cut Diamond

The Marquise Cut Diamond is truly unique among diamonds. The cut was originally commissioned by King Louis XIV, and is also known as the "navette" cut, which means "little boat" in French due to it's signature shape.

The marquise cut is a modified brilliant cut which produces excellent sparkle and brilliance while maintaining the maximum amount of carat weight and millimeter size. The elongated shape of the marquise is excellent for giving the impression of long, slender fingers.

Tip: The marquise cut gives fingers a long and slender appearance.

Fact: This brilliant cut enhances fire and brilliance and displays a large visual size.

Suggested Cut: 1.75 to 2.25 is the ideal shape

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Heart Cut Diamond

Symbolizing true love and romance, a heart shape diamond is a distinctive cut that sets beautifully in rings and pendants. Originally a pear shape, this brilliant cut showcases the fire and brilliance inside the diamond.

The heart shape features a small notch at the top that only the most skilled diamond cutters attempt. Symmetry and a balanced length to width ratio is an important consideration with heart shaped diamonds; diamonds that are cut too widely or too narrow can appear distorted.

Tip: The heart shaped diamond is well suited to both rings and pendants.

Fact: The heart shape can only be created by the most skilled diamond cutters.

Suggested Cut: 0.9 to 1.1 is a good range, 1.1 is the ideal shape

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Pear Cut Diamond

The pear shape is a brilliant cut which has a rounded bottom and comes to a dramatic point on the other end. The round part of the pear contributes to its brilliance while the unique shape of the point makes this cut stand out.

The pear’s lengthened silhouette is a versatile and flattering choice. This shape has been popular for decades and lends a classically beautiful appeal to whatever jewelry it adorns.

Tip: The pearl shape helps fingers appear longer and slimmer.

Fact: The pear is also known as a tear-drop shape.

Suggested Cut: 1.45 to 1.75 is a good range

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Asscher Cut Diamond

The Asscher cut is very similar to the emerald cut; both are step cuts that have tiered facets and a mirror-like way of reflecting light, however the Asscher is square rather than rectangular in shape. The step cut emphasizes the clarity of the diamond, and it is ideal for showcasing higher clarity diamonds.

This striking cut was developed in 1902, and its geometric look was popular during the Art Deco period. The Asscher cut has skyrocketed in popularity over the last decade with those looking for a diamond cut that expresses their individuality and flair for style.

Tip: Clarity is key; make sure anything SI1 or less is eye clean.

Fact: The Asscher cut was created in 1902 by Joseph Asscher.

Suggested Cut: 1.00 to 1.05 for square proportions

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Oval Cut Diamond

Brides with a flair for the original and unique opt for oval diamonds.Oval diamonds sparkle with the life and brilliance of a round, but feature a gracefully elongated shape that stands out from the crowd. The oval Cut Diamond makes fingers appear slimmer and this shape appears larger when mounted due to it's longer sillhouette.

The overall profile of an oval is determined by its length to width ratio. For a classically oval shape we recommend a length to width ratio in between 1.33 and 1.66. A brilliant cut, the oval features 58 facets- the same as a round brilliant, but has a larger table.

Tip: The oval diamond has the fire of a round but a distinctive and unique profile.

Fact: The oval cut features 58 facets and a larger table than the round brilliant.

Suggested Cut: Ovals have the best proportions at 1.33-1.66

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Radiant Cut Diamond

The radiant cut is a brilliant cut that can be square or rectangular with cut corners, and it's brilliant facets produce a bright and fiery effect. This cut is a popular choice for those who enjoy clean, linear shapes, but want something distinctive from a princess. This cut looks excellent in a variety of settings, whether standing alone as a solitaire or surrounded by other diamond accents.

The length to width ratio determines how rectangular the radiant cut will be. A ratio of 1.00 to 1.05 will create a square shape, and from 1.30 to 1.50 will produce a rectangle.

Tip: The radiant is an excellent choice for those wanting clean lines with plenty of fire.

Fact: The radiant has clipped corners like a step cut, but has brilliant cut facets.

Suggested Cut: For rectangules try 1.3-1.5, for square 1.0-1.05

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Cushion Cut Diamond

Cushion Cut Diamonds are an antique cut that originated in the 1800's. This cut features larger crown facets that strongly accentuate the fire of a diamond, which is most noticeable by candlelight. This is why cushion Cut Diamonds are also known as “candlelight" diamonds.

Cushions can be rounded squares or rectangular shapes, so refer to the length to width ratio to envision the overall shape of the stone. There is no right or wrong ratio in selecting a beautifully cut cushion Cut Diamond, the final shape depends entirely on your taste.

Tip: This romantic and vintage diamond cut looks best in candlelight.

Fact: The cushion has 58 facets. Larger facets amplify the fire or rainbow effect.

Suggested Cut: 1.0 to 1.05 for square, 1.15 and up for rectanglar

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Length to Width Ratio

Length to Width Ratio is an important factor in choosing your diamond and is often overlooked. Differing length to width ratios can make a princess cut stone appear rectangular or square and make a marquise shaped stone either appear long and thin or shorter and wider. While ultimately the length to width ratio of a stone is a matter of aesthetic preference, there are a set values that are considered ideal for each of the various fancy shapes. These values are chosen to minimize the bowtie effect of the stone.

Below, the fancy shapes we sell at Adiamor are shown along with their ideal length to width ratios. You may click on any of them and enter a number before clicking the "Submit" button to see an approximation of the a diamond with the given length to width ratio.


What is the "Bowtie Effect"?

The "bowtie" of a diamond refers to a dark spot in the shape of a bowtie that is present in fancy shaped stones. This effect is caused by light leaking out of the bottom of the stone rather than being reflected back to the top due to the unique shape of the stone. Round stones, with their complete symmetry, are the only shape which do not have a bowtie and therefore do not require a length to width ratio.

How do I calculate Length to Width Ratio?

Calculating the length to width ratio is fairly simple. Simply divide the measurement (generally in millimeters) of the length of the stone by the width measurement. These measurements will appear in the top left portion of your diamond's grading report. They are listed as length by width by depth. So, if a 1.00 carat princess cut diamond had the measurements 5.86mm x 5.67mm x 3.89mm, you would take the length (5.86mm) and divide it by the width (5.67mm). The depth, while factoring highly into the Cut Grade of the diamond, is not important in finding your length to width ratio. After dividing the two, you get a factor of 1.03. This is your ratio and can be thought of as representing the length of the diamond if the width was represented by 1. This is considered an excellent length to width ratio for a princess cut stone and will appear square.

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